Not a bad first-time multi-pitch and alpine climb for Joe and my first alpine climb lead on my own! Dont smear it on a rock nearbyit gets in the water, and if you camped here, someone else probably will, too. Shuksan via Shannon Ridge or Lake Ann, and many other climbs). If I would have known, I would have brough a new one. Dont toss it in a crevasseglaciers of the Pacific Northwest are relatively thin and it melts out quickly. so I decided to grab the permit and make Fisher . Mount Shuksan is a glaciated massif in the North Cascades National Park. Mt Shuksan - Fisher Chimney's + SE Ridge. With your permission, our office staff can share your name and contact information with other team members so that you can organize ridesharing. August 18 August 20, 2023 3 spots left, Mount Shuksan, the Crown Jewel of the North Cascades, is one of the most photographed mountains in the Cascade Range. Joe coming down the first rappel from just below the summit. If you have never rock climbed before, we strongly recommend that you participate in one of our rock climbing courses before climbing the Fisher Chimneys: Intro to Alpine Rock Climbing To make a climbing report, please e-mail the Wilderness Information Center in Marblemount. The word Shuksan is derived from a word in the language of the nearby Lummi Tribe that means high peak.. Mt. . Shuksan. We scramble 600 feet of 3rd class rock to the summit, where we enjoy fantastic views of the North Cascades and Mount Baker. From our alpine bivy, we turn to alpine ice, glacier travel, steep snow climbing, more glacier travel, and eventually alpine rock climbing . An average tip is 10 20% percent of the cost of the program, usually $100 $200. When preparing meals, please do not bring food items that require extensive cooking or other preparation. SE Ridge was clear of snow all the way to the summit, decent enough rock, no slings or anchors on the ridge proper. Baker-Snoqualmie & Okanogan-Wenatchee, and Shoshone National Forests, the North Cascades and Denali National Parks, as well as Monticello, Moab, and Banks Lake Bureau of Land Management and Washington State Parks. Almost at the Summit Pyramid. I didnt realize at the time, but the low route was certainly the least used.and by least, I mean probably almost never. The low-impact principles of Leave No Trace are important no matter what activity you are engaged in, but in the alpine and in popular climbing areas, some practices become critical to the ecological health of the area. We ate some snacks, enjoyed the expansive views of the North Cascades as the cloud layer was starting to break up and reveal the smaller peaks around us. Prophet, to name a few. Engineering. Learn to appreciate and respect this signature ritual of Cascades climbs. From the summit, we enjoy views of the glaciers beneath us on Shuksans north face, and the serrated peaks of the North Cascades. My goal was to be back at high camp by noon, a little over 8 hours later. Dinner in high camp. Rental gear must be reserved in advance online at, endurance, core strength, flexibility and balance, For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you must, be able to maintain the pace set by our guides, e lose precious daylight hours and we expose ourselves to quickly shifting, VISIT OUR ONLINE GEAR SHOP > THE GUIDE HUT, Fairfield Inn & Suites by Marriott Burlington, La Quinta Inn & Suites by Wyndham Burlington. We do not accept participants under 15 years old due to insurance and liability reasons. Shuksan is one of the most photographed mountains in the world. A way to bypass the need for a backcountry camping permit would be . Log in and send us That said, it is linked to one of the most striking features on the mountain. Shuksan. Where can one go to explore and test ones limits and skills when others have left such copious markers of human presence? We reached the bottom of the final class 4 section around 7:30pm, a solid 16 hours since we set off that morning. Meet at our Guide Hut in Sedro-Woolley, WA. Named by native Salish tribes Mount Shuksan is 10th highest peak in the Cascades. Rob scrambling up to the start of his first ever rock climb (of any kind! The team will start with a welcome meeting, run through a group gear-check and program orientation. The best times to visit this trail are June through September. Requires good physical condition and endurance. HMG Prism was just about perfect for this trip - gypsy camp with everything packed but perfect slimmed down on summit day. Joe had some snow experience from a couple winter scrambles we had done in Japan, but Rob had none and neither of them had been on a glacier, used snow and ice protection, or done a climb with a bivy on-route. Moving more slowly can be dangerous. We all tried to get to sleep early since our plan was to get up at 2am and be moving between 3am and 3:30, but I set another alarm for sunset to get a few pictures before fully going to bed for the short night. Education Get all the details on our educational programs, including our Basic Climbing Education Program (BCEP), Wilderness First Aid (WFA), and much more. Northwest Alpine Guides will instruct you how to climb safely and successfully. Complex glacier travel, moderate and exposed rock climbing and often a bit of easy ice climbing later in the season. Led by guides Zeb Blais and Brandon Seymore, the climb went smoothly with fit climbers, excellent weather and great route conditions. It is probably the most well-known of the non-volcanic peaks of the Cascade Range, a vivid reminder that the northern reaches of the range harbor more than giant snowy domes like . Here, the 50/60m rope setup did not quite reach the '5th' rap station. Plan to arrive the day before the climb begins. With an adventure sport like mountaineering, safety is paramount. The Northwest Rib is nearly unknown, and rarely climbed. I had some field trips in July planned to practice snow and glacier skills, some conditioners up mailbox peak, and had booked campsites near Mazama for the first weekend, intended to be 'rock practical skills'. I listed Rob as the alternate trip leader on the permit since he would have an easier time skipping out of work early on Friday to make it to the ranger station in time to grab the permit. Do pick up blue bags at a ranger station and keep some handy on every climb! Please note that a minimum of two participants is required to guarantee each departure at the advertised price. We are a committed equal opportunity outdoor recreation service provider. Additional parking can be found across the street in the Park & Ride lot. Running, swimming, cycling and other sports may help you prepare for your climb, but they are usually not sufficient. Climbed mt Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys Route. It only takes one instance of a bear obtaining food from a climber to cause a problemdont be the one who makes this mistake. At about 2 mi, cross small creek and hike up small stream and over ridge southeast (4,800 ft) to Lake Ann. Mount Shuksan : Fischer Chimneys 7/18/2016 . Northwest Alpine Guides will provide you with a detailed PreClimb departure book upon registration including a gear list specific to your trip, meeting location and driving directions. Kara scrambling in Fisher Chimneys. Turn left onto F&S Grade Road. This is an advanced climb that showcases the majesty of the North Cascades. As we neared what I thought was the beginning of the ridge, another party arrived, and we let them pass us given my expectation to be pitching everything out. Climb 3rd and 4th class alpine rock up the spectacular Fisher Chimneys to the summit of Mount Shuksan. Each deposit includes a $300.00 nonrefundable registration fee. The policy is intended to protect participants who have otherwise committed time and resources to the departure. Climbs of Fisher Chimneys start from the North side of the mountain and hike past a beautiful small lake before tackling the complex yet very moderate rock climbing terrain of the Fisher . For your safety and the safety of your rope team, you mustbe able to maintain the pace set by our guideswhile maintaining reserves of strength. The 50/60m double rope setup reached the '3rd' rap station no problem. Shuksan epitomizes the jagged alpine peak Continue Reading Shuksan, 9131FT / 2783m . Backcountry permits are designed to prevent over-crowding at some sites and to disperse visitors throughout the park at a rate which is less damaging to wilderness resources such as native vegetation, soils, and wildlife. After breakfast, we break camp, pack our gear and retrace our steps back to the trailhead. We encountered a number of parties once we got onto the main trade-route of Mt. I didnt want to overburden myself so I made some judicious cuts to my clothing kit, accepting the fact that if the weather window collapsed it would be immediate cause to turn back. Mt. Here, Rob is at the last good stance to unrope at the end of the rap. Dinner in high camp. Our day started out pretty early. Northwest Alpine Guides will provide the group with hot cooking water for breakfast and dinner. Know and follow these dos and donts for dealing with human waste. and then we had to drive way off route into Marblemount to pick up a Park Service backcountry permitthe Park Service offices in Sedro Wooley and Glacier both closed at 4:30 pm that day and didn't open until 7:45 am on . If you are on snow or bare rock, you must resort to the final option: blue bag it! We serve both local and out-of-town climbers in our Northwest programs, and many of our guests prefer to use their own vehicles. You will need to provideall of your own meals during the Mount Shuksan Fisher Chimneys Climb. Shuksans Fisher Chimneys Route and summit pyramid. Even strong runners may struggle to carry a heavy pack over steep, uneven terrain for hours at a time. It didnt take long, and we arrived at the entrance of the chimney itself. Wildflowers blooming. Webbing left behind on climbing routes has also become an eyesorepounds and pounds of colorful, fraying webbing clutter some climbs. 210 Ball Street Not a bad considering it was Joe's first ever climbing experience of any kind! Rob taking in the elevation gained so far, looking down at the Lower Curtis glacier. In recent years, many climbers have noticed and complained, with bitterness touched by sadness, about the myriad of fluttering flags found along many, many routes in the North Cascades. The mountain has become an icon for climbers in the northwest with its rugged beauty and rich mountaineering history. The main parking lot was full so we parked in the overflow lot. The peak is draped in hanging glaciers and beautiful rock buttresses. 2020-07-25-26 Mount Shuksan via Fisher Chimneys. Shuksan, Mt. 4 climbers)Length: 3 days + 1/2 day travel and prep Cost: $1767.00 per person - 1 Climber/1 Guide $1167.00 per person - 2 Climbers/1 Guide $1377.00 per person - 3 Climbers/2 Guides $1167.00 per person - 4 Climbers/2 GuidesDates: July 20-23, 2022 August 5-8, 2022, Prep Day - Travel to the Skagit Valley, WA. Find these places your own way. Food Canister requirements in portions of some popular climbing zones. Stop here for night if c2c is not a goal. Learn to co-exist with the devils club Sedro-Woolley, WA 98284. ), Trailhead parking fees (Northwest Forest Pass), Waiver for pre-existing conditions (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Optional Cancel for Any Reason coverage (must be purchased within 14 days of trip deposit), Small personal first-aid kit with medications and blister kit. Mt. Flagging and excessive webbing are considered trashpack them out like you do all of your other garbage! Mountain Tactical Institute. Unbeknownst to us, some class 3 sections lay ahead of us. There are no entry fees or parking fees within North Cascades National Park Service Complex; however, many routes or trails begin on National Forest land, and a parking pass is required (i.e. This photo courtesy of Joe. From June 1 to November 15, allowed hard-sided food canisters are required for camping below the vegetation line in Boston Basin, Eldorado, and Sulphide Glacier cross-country zones. Many a climber on a long, back-breaking approach has cursed thickets of devils club or slide alder or the clinging snags of downed trees. Do talk about waste disposal options and plans with your group. One waste kit per 1-3 days is typically sufficient. We weren't in a huge rush on day one so we left Seattle at 7 AM and started hiking around 10 AM. 1. For more information on food storage requirements see. Turn left onto F & S Grade Road, From State Highway 20 East, at the traffic circle, take the 2nd exit onto Cook Road (after the Walgreens), Follow Cook Road to Borseth Road in Sedro-Woolley, 7 min (4.3 mi) . Human waste is a pollutant to both land and water, a potential health hazard, and a repulsive eyesore on a route or near a bivy siteor when your climbing rope drags through it. Sunset was worth interrupting my sleep for a half hour for photos. I might start keeping at least a few sheets of 'write in the rain' paper on me for future climbs. Heading up the final slope to the start of the chimneys. This area is incredibly scenic and therefor very popular. Mountain climbing can be unpredictable weather conditions can change in a moment and one wrong step can lead to an injury. We cannot overstate how critical it is for you to bring foods that you enjoy eating. Single-weight synthetic/leather mountaineering boots are adequate for mid-summer climbs on Mount Shuksan when conditions are expected to be dry. Suggested food items: Alpine Breakfast: Instant oatmeal, Pop Tarts, dried fruit, granola bars, bagels, peanut butter, cream cheese. Climbing Time: 7-9 hours. We highly recommend that all participants consider travel and trip cancellation insurance after making a deposit. For a quote, or to purchase travel insurance, please click this link Global Rescue. We recommend that you bring a variety of snack food to eat while moving (about 150-200 calories each break). Written By Amber Chang. Ascend/traverse the glacier, working left around crevasses. Fisher Chimneys or North Face Climbs. 810 State Route 20 Climbing Time: 4 hours. Follow a trail toward the lower Curtis Glacier. July 22, 2016 Posted by: Climbing Rangers. This put my summit time goal 9am. I put in a pair of pickets, had everyone remove their glacier rope setup, and set up a fixed 60m single strand rappel. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. Our guides will instruct the desired skills needed to climb a glacier to the summit. We moved quickly down the Sulphide without crampons as the snow was very soft by now. Climbers should monitor the forecast diligently before beginning a trip and turn around if conditions deteriorate. We all downclimbed Winnies Slide and were happy to make our last steps off snow as we reach the top of the chimney. These trips are low ratio, small group expeditions led by some of the most experienced guides in the business. Shuksan, 9,127', via the Fisher Chimneys and the SE Ridge combines moderate rock climbing (up to 5.2), short steep snow and ice sections and spectacular glaciers on one of the most picturesque mountains in the world. The thin floor still always makes me nervous on rocky terrain. We are currently full for our 2023 dates and are accepting waitlist names at this time. Snack and lunch food for the descent to trailhead. Joe and rob looking a little tiredconsidering that Rob had never climbed even a single pitch of anything before today, Joe had never been on a glacier before, and I had was leading my first ever glacier-rock combination alpine route this was a huge success! A view from Lake Ann approach trail 2. We generally arrive back at our cars by early afternoon and conclude our adventure in Sedro-Woolley. Ascend the first chimney for about 200 ft. Below a difficult step exit right and continue up ridge. Shuksan taken from the Summit of neighborin 1. Please include the route, snow level, any hazards encountered (or not), peak(s) attempted, and whether your party successfully summitted. Eating properly is the key to maintaining strength in the mountains. Mt. Joe making his way up the ridge. I think that the standard pitched climbing approach gave Joe and Rob a chance to relax at the belays though, which helped keep our pace consistent even if it was a little slow. Team members are free to organize rideshares with other team members. I was pleasantly surprised at the quality of the rock in the chimney. 305 F And S Grade Road Pushing past Lake Ann, the group will climb another 2,000 ft to their camp above the Lower Curtis Glacier; 4.8 Miles, +2,500 Elevation Gain, 4 Hrs Travel Time, 35-45 lb Pack WeightDay 2 - In the alpine air, training clinics will begin. The books listed below are examples of titles available on this subject (listing does not imply endorsement by the National Park Service). Chimney for about 200 ft. below a difficult step exit right and Continue up Ridge scenic. Of easy ice climbing later in the language of the Pacific Northwest and beyond quality of the most experienced in... 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